Fabric tests and terms for upholstery: a glossary

Spec sheets for upholstery fabrics are full of test names, standard numbers and grades. This glossary explains what they mean in plain English. It is general information: the results of a test apply only to the fabric (or the fabric-and-filling combination) that was tested, and requirements differ by market and end use.

On our product pages we list the test methods that apply to an article. We show results only once they have been verified; until then the method carries the status "Awaiting verification". Ask us for the documentation available for the articles you are considering.

Performance tests

Abrasion resistance (Martindale) — EN ISO 12947

The Martindale test rubs a round specimen of fabric against a standard abrasive cloth in a repeating figure-of-eight-like pattern, under a set load. EN ISO 12947-2 counts the number of rubs (cycles) until the specimen breaks down; for woven fabrics this is usually when two separate threads have broken. The result is given as a number of rubs.

• Higher numbers mean better resistance to abrasion under test conditions.
• Contract and hospitality seating usually asks for higher values than furniture for the home.
• In North America the Wyzenbeek method (ASTM D4157) is common. It reports "double rubs". Wyzenbeek and Martindale results cannot be converted into each other.

Pilling — EN ISO 12945

Pills are small balls of fibre that form on the surface with wear. EN ISO 12945-2 uses a modified Martindale machine to rub the fabric for a set number of cycles; EN ISO 12945-1 uses a tumbling pilling box. The specimen is then compared with photographic standards and graded from 1 (very severe pilling) to 5 (no pilling). A result should state both the grade and the number of cycles.

Colour fastness to light — EN ISO 105-B02

The fabric is exposed to a xenon arc lamp, which imitates daylight, alongside a set of blue wool references. Fading is rated on the blue wool scale from 1 (very low fastness) to 8 (very high fastness). It matters most for furniture that stands near windows.

Colour fastness to rubbing — EN ISO 105-X12

Also called crocking. A white cotton cloth is rubbed against the fabric, dry and wet, and the staining on the white cloth is rated on the grey scale for staining from 1 (heavy staining) to 5 (no staining). Dry and wet results are reported separately; wet results are usually lower.

Seam slippage — EN ISO 13936

Measures how easily the yarns slide apart along a seam when it is pulled. The result is usually the seam opening, in millimetres, at a set load. It is important for loosely woven fabrics and for seams under tension, such as seat cushions.

Tensile and tear strength — EN ISO 13934 and EN ISO 13937

Tensile tests measure the force needed to break a strip of fabric; tear tests measure the force needed to continue a tear. Both are given for the warp and weft directions separately.

Water repellency — EN ISO 4920

The spray test sprays water onto a stretched specimen and compares the wetted surface with a rating chart. A higher rating means the surface repels water better. Water repellency is not the same as stain resistance or waterproofing.

Fire safety tests

BS 5852

A British standard for the ignitability of upholstered seating. It uses a smouldering cigarette ("ignition source 0") and a small butane flame that simulates a match ("ignition source 1"). Heavier sources, such as wooden cribs, are used for some contract applications. The test is carried out on a combination of cover fabric and filling, so a result applies to the combination tested.

EN 1021-1 and EN 1021-2

European standards for the ignitability of upholstered furniture: part 1 uses a smouldering cigarette, part 2 a match-flame equivalent. Like BS 5852, they test the cover and filling together.

Fire-safety rules differ from country to country, and between home and contract furniture. Check which rules apply to the finished furniture in your market.

Chemical safety

Azo dyes — EN ISO 14362-1

Some azo colourants can release aromatic amines that are restricted in the European Union under the REACH regulation (Annex XVII). EN ISO 14362-1 is the usual method for detecting them. A result normally states whether restricted amines were detected above the limit.

Fabric and spec-sheet terms

• Composition. The share of each fibre in the fabric, as a percentage of weight. Suppliers often use abbreviations; ask for the full fibre names if they are not given.
• Weight. Usually given in grams. It can refer to one square metre (g/m², often written gsm) or to one running metre of the full width. Check which basis a supplier uses before you compare articles.
• Fabric width and usable width. Fabric width is the full width from edge to edge. Usable width excludes the selvedges and any unusable edge, so it is the width you can actually cut.
• Selvedge. The finished edge along each side of a woven fabric.
• Roll length. The length of fabric on one roll or piece. It is often given as a range.
• Colourway or colour number. One colour version of an article. Many suppliers number colours instead of naming them.
• Dye lot or batch. Fabric dyed or produced in the same run. Colour can vary slightly between batches, so cut one project from one batch where possible.
• Backing or lamination. A thin layer bonded to the reverse of the fabric to add stability or body. Common backings include a light fleece, a light woven fabric (such as pongee) or a non-woven layer. Colour cards and spec sheets often state the backing.
• Pattern repeat. The distance after which a pattern repeats, along the length and across the width. Large repeats need more fabric to match.
• Up the roll and railroaded. Up the roll means the pattern or pile runs along the length of the fabric. Railroaded means it runs across, which lets wide sofa backs be cut without seams.
• MOQ and MCQ. Minimum order quantity, and minimum quantity per colour.
• Lead time. The time from order confirmation to shipment or delivery. Always check which of the two is meant.

Weave and look terms

• Warp and weft. Warp threads run along the length of the fabric; weft threads run across it.
• Plain weave. The simplest interlacing: over one, under one.
• Basket weave. Two or more threads interlaced together as one, which gives a small square, basket-like pattern.
• Twill. An interlacing that forms diagonal lines across the surface.
• Jacquard. A weave in which each warp thread can be controlled individually, so complex patterns such as damasks can be woven into the cloth.
• Chenille. A yarn with a soft, velvety pile around its core. Fabrics made with it look soft and catch the light.
• Bouclé. A yarn with loops or curls, giving a nubby, looped surface.
• Melange. A mix of differently coloured fibres or yarns that gives a heathered look.
• Slub and strié. Slubs are thicker sections in a yarn; strié is a fine streaked effect, often from slub or melange yarns.
• Rib and cord. Raised lines running along or across the fabric.
• Pile. Raised fibres or loops standing up from the base fabric, as in velvet. Pile fabrics can look lighter or darker depending on the viewing direction.